Cairns: The Gateway to the Great Barrier Reef

Cairns lacks Sydney's drama and Melbourne's grandeur — what it has instead is the Great Barrier Reef ninety minutes offshore and a town built entirely around getting you there.

Cairns lacks Sydney's drama and Melbourne's grandeur — what it has instead is the Great Barrier Reef ninety minutes offshore and a town built entirely around getting you there.

Exmouth is 1,260 kilometres north of Perth by road, reachable by a domestic flight that takes about two hours, and most Australians have not been there. This is entirely understandable given the distance. It is also, I would argue, one…

The Great Barrier Reef is 2,300 kilometres of reef, islands, and ocean. Here's the framework for planning a trip that matches what you actually want to experience.

Heron Island sits at the southern tip of the Great Barrier Reef, surrounded by one of the most studied coral reef ecosystems on Earth. The research station has been here since 1951. The reef has been here much longer.

The first time I dived in Raja Ampat, I surfaced after the second dive of the first day, looked at my buddy, and said nothing for about a minute. There was nothing useful to say. We had just come up…

The first time I put my face underwater with a regulator in my mouth, I panicked. Not dramatically — no thrashing, no bolting for the surface. Just a quiet, internal seizing-up. The kind of panic that sits behind your eyes…

Christmas Island occupies a peculiar position in the imagination of most Australians. They know the name — it comes up in refugee and immigration contexts regularly enough — but almost none of them have been there, and fewer still know…

One of the things you don’t expect from a reef trip, until you’ve done it, is the sky. The reef itself makes immediate claims on your attention — the colour of the water, the structure of the coral, the fish,…

Stand-up paddleboarding arrived in reef tourism at roughly the right moment. The technology existed, the reef was becoming more accessible to non-diving visitors, and people were looking for ways to engage with the water that were slower and more observational…

A liveaboard changes your relationship with the ocean in ways that are difficult to anticipate until you’ve done one. The change isn’t dramatic on the first day. You board the vessel, stow your gear, meet the other divers, eat dinner,…