The standard GBR itinerary covers 200 kilometres of a 2,300-kilometre reef. Here are the experiences — Swain Reefs, Lady Musgrave camping, Aboriginal sea country tours — that most tourists never find.
Cooktown sits at the edge of convenient tourism — and rewards the visitors who reach it with uncrowded reef, extraordinary history, and potato cod that have never learned to fear divers.
Cephalopods are the reef's most intelligent invertebrates - and possibly its most intelligent animals, full stop. Watching a cuttlefish change colour in real time is one of the reef's most extraordinary experiences.
Seventy-four islands, the world's finest silica beach, manta rays and Aboriginal rock art — a complete guide to the Whitsundays beyond the sailing brochures.
My dive guide — a small, sun-weathered woman named Rosa who had been diving the reefs off Tulamben in Bali for twenty years — once told me that she could spend an entire dive on a patch of rubble no…
Flynn Reef is 45 kilometres from Cairns and hosts some of the best accessible diving on the central GBR. It's where most Cairns visitors have their first reef experience - and it's better than they expect.
Raine Island is a small coral cay on the outer northern GBR with one extraordinary distinction: it hosts the largest green turtle nesting aggregation on Earth. Up to 60,000 females in a single season.
Sustainable reef travel isn't just about what you do in the water. Here's the full picture — from carbon offsetting flights to becoming an advocate when you get home.
Coral gardening, assisted evolution, larval seeding - the science of reef restoration is moving fast. But can it move fast enough, and what does it actually look like in practice?
Thursday Island sits at the very top of Australia, in a part of the country shaped by pearl diving, maritime culture, and 4,000 years of Torres Strait Islander history.